I've been looking for these little bad boys for a few weeks. The good thing about a monster store like home depot is they have a lot of stuff. The bad thing about home depot is they have a lot of stuff. For the life of me I couldn't find anything like this in either of the big boys. I did find something similar at the ace hardware just north of town, but they weren't the right ones. These are the ones I'm looking for -- I finally found them here. Unfortunately they don't come in single packs and so had to settle for a 10 pack. I should be set for life I think..As you'll imagine the next step in my window restoration is getting the glazing on the windows. It was really only necessary in spots. The longest of which was on the lower sash of the large middle window. There weren't any glaziers points holding the glass in so I really needed something in there to help stabilize it. I put one in every 6 - 8 inches or so. Once I took care of that it was time to get some window glazing on. Luckily you still can find this stuff at the big boxes. I'm using DAP, but not really aware of anything else out there. Get a handful and roll it up like you're kneading dough. I don't like to get too much at a time as it's a little harder to handle. Get it into thin cigar size strips and finesse it onto the glass and wood as best you can.
Then come back and cut the glaze down to size. You should come in about 45 degree angle and should aim for as tight a corner as you can. You shouldn't see the glaze dead on from the inside so that should give you an idea of how much to cut down. With a wide open path of no glaze it's pretty easy to do this technique, however if you're patching in new glaze to blend in with old you may find that a little hard. What I like to do is cut the part that's protruding out towards you first then do small cuts one by one with the edge of the blade dead on towards the glass. That probably makes no sense, but if you run into the same problem I did you'll know what I mean. Once you cut the excess I like to smooth out the surface of the glaze with my finger so there are minimal bumps.
Then come back and cut the glaze down to size. You should come in about 45 degree angle and should aim for as tight a corner as you can. You shouldn't see the glaze dead on from the inside so that should give you an idea of how much to cut down. With a wide open path of no glaze it's pretty easy to do this technique, however if you're patching in new glaze to blend in with old you may find that a little hard. What I like to do is cut the part that's protruding out towards you first then do small cuts one by one with the edge of the blade dead on towards the glass. That probably makes no sense, but if you run into the same problem I did you'll know what I mean. Once you cut the excess I like to smooth out the surface of the glaze with my finger so there are minimal bumps.
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